Regardez Hands-on: Cartier Panther Watches For Women

Depuis cette première montre, la panthère a été utilisée comme motif dans les bijoux et les montres de l'entreprise, symbole récurrent de la force combiné avec l'élégance. Il définit également Cartier, ainsi que ses clients de haut niveau. Certaines des pièces les plus célèbres incluent un bracelet et un collier conçu en 1931 pour l'héritière Daisy Fellowes, représentant une panthère aux rubis et aux perles. En 1948, Cartier fit une broche pour la duchesse de Windsor avec une panthère inclinée sur une grande émeraude.

Un an plus tard, la duchesse a commandé une broche panthère avec le chat perché sur un cabochon saphir de 152,35 carats, considéré comme l'une des créations principales de Jeanne Toussaint, directrice de design de Cartier, depuis longtemps. Toussaint elle-même a été connue sous le nom de "La Panthère", non seulement en raison de son utilisation fréquente du motif panthère, mais à cause de son style sans crainte et de sa personnalité formidable. Chaque fois que la panthère apparaît dans la collection Cartier, elle est embellie. Cela continue ces dernières années, avec l'intérêt croissant pour les métiers d'art et l'ouverture de la nouvelle Maison des Métiers d'Arts de Cartier à La Chaux-de-Fonds, en Suisse.

For the past several years, Cartier has debuted four or five exceptional pieces at SIHH in Geneva, with sculpted panthers embellished with diamonds, gemstones, enameling or marquetry, with onyx or black lacquer used to depict the spots. Okay, technically a panther does not have spots – it’s all black – but Cartier’s panther is representative of all wild cats, including leopards. This year, four Cartier panther watches were introduced.

with on-demand power reserve, makes a big show of the power reserve indicator. At the press of a button, a panther cub protrudes from the mother panther’s stomach (my colleagues dubbed it “the kangaroo panther”). Symbolically, the baby is chasing the gold hummingbird on the dial, which “flies” to a point on its arc that indicates the remaining power reserve. This is surely the most creative and poetic power reserve indicator ever made. There are several patents attached to the function. The sculpted Panther is set with 270 diamonds with spots in black lacquer and an emerald eye. The 42.75mm case is set with 314 diamonds and the dial is set with 11 diamonds on a black background. The black alligator strap has a double adjustable folding clasp in 18k white gold set with 43 diamonds. The Cartier Panthères et Colibri contains the manual-wound Caliber 9915 MC, with a three-day power reserve.

The Cartier Panthère Mysterieuse embodies two signature Cartier elements – the panther and the mystery movement, in which the hands are suspended between two sapphire crystals, driven by a movement that is out of sight, so the hands seem to be floating in the air. The panther on this watch is perched around the circumference of the bezel and appears to be stalking the dial. She is sculpted in 18k gold and set with 533 diamonds. Two pear-shaped emeralds form the eyes, and the spots are black lacquer. The 40mm case is set with eight diamonds, the crown is set with 37 diamonds, and the buckle on the black alligator strap is set with 43 diamonds – all round brilliant-cut. The case is 8.50mm thick. The Cartier Panthère Mysterieuse watch contains the manual-wound Caliber 9981 MC, with 158 components. It operates at 4Hz, with a power reserve of 48 hours. It is also available on a gem-set bracelet.

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Granulation is a limited edition of 30 pieces, which makes sense when you consider the amount of work that goes into it. Each one takes a month to create, and there are only two people at Cartier who have the skills to do it, so they can’t even make 30 in a year. It combines two skills: enameling and the ancient art of granulation, traditionally done with gold balls. In this case, enamel balls are individually attached to the dial to form the composition, a panther’s head. Because the dials are made by hand, each one is slightly different. The 42mm case is 18k gold and set with 124 diamonds. The crown is set with a sapphire cabochon. The 18k gold buckle is set with 43 diamonds. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Granulation contains the automatic Caliber 049 MC, and has a dark blue strap to match the dial’s background.

The Cartier Panthère Mysterieuse Pendant watch is a unique piece that falls into the category of high jewelry. It is made of white gold, with an agate, onyx, and obsidian dial and more than 17 carats of diamonds altogether. The Cartier Panthère Mysterieuse Pendant contains the manual-wound Caliber 9981 MC, a mysterieuse movement with hands moving between sapphire crystals. The 18k white gold case and chain are set with 1,256 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling 16.25 carats of diamonds. There are five triangular-shaped diamonds totaling 1.25 carats, one baguette-cut diamond of 0.05 carat. The eyes are set with pear-shaped emeralds.

Le prix du pendentif est sur demande. Le prix pour Cartier Panthères et Colibri est de 188 000 $, le Cartier Panthère Mysterieuse a un prix de 173 000 $ et la granulation Ballon Bleu de Cartier d'un montant de 156 000 $.

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